On my last visit to Bali I discovered that palm leaf libraries do not only exist in India but also in Bali. Fascinated by the fact Wayan, a friend's friend, organised a meeting for me and my partner with the only Pedanda (high priest) in Bali who does Lontar Readings (the other priest who did proper readings past away a while ago). I was told that the Lontar leaves with texts written in Sanskrit are kept in the high priest's shrine and are taken out only for ceremonies. To save the transcripts the high priest has transcribed the texts by hand and bound them to books.
When we arrived in the Pedanda's place there were other people in the pedanda's courtyard receiving blessings or bringing their offerings. While waiting we were offered coffee and biscuits and watched all the birds in the Pedanda's courtyard which were waiting to be released when a soul dies.
When it was my turn Wayan and I sat down in front of the Pedanda and I was asked to write down my name and birth date. According to Balinese religion we are always an rebirth of a family ancestor either from the mother's or father's line - therefore the name. The birth date was transformed to the Balinese calendar which consists of 210 days. The Pedanda opened his books and started reading out in Sanskrit from his books and while Wayan was taking notes in his book in which he had all readings written down. I was his 249th customer. Sometimes the high priest would stop reading, smile at me or discuss something with Wayan.
After about 30 minutes the Pedanda stopped and Wayan started translating what the Pedanda said. Wayan explained the gods responsible for my personality, characteristics and protection. Wayan also explained me that I am the rebirth of my great-grandmother from my mother's line and described her/my personality. He mentioned that I am in my 5th incarnation with two more to go. He moved on to my bird and tree symbols that match my karma and talked me through the karma of my present life and the future including some problems I might face. He also referred to health, job, relationship matters, changes that might occur later in my life and the year of death (only because I asked). In the reading the 7 steps of life where mentioned which were graded (0= lowest grade, 5 = highest grade for normal people, 6 = priests). In the end I was allowed to ask three questions that the Pedanda answered.
In the end the both of us together received a Melukat purification ceremony in order to be prevented from havoc, bad luck and sickness. An incense was lit and waved into our both faces, our hands were cleaned with flowers, holy water was poured over the heads before we were given the holy water and rice into our mouth and on our frown and throat. Finally the priest put hairbands made of palm leaves and flowers over our heads.
Bali is a very special place for me on earth that calls me now and then back. Having visited Bali for the 4th time I was a bit disappointed with all the crowds of tourists because it makes you easy to forget and oversee the beauty of Balinese culture. However, the experience with the Pedanda was a very meaningful one and strengthen my love and admiration for Bali.
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